On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Nigerian-Brazilian designer Torishéju Dumi debuted her womenswear line. Opened by Naomi Campbell, and closed by Paloma Elsesser, Dumi executed an impressive introduction to the global fashion industry. For its Spring/Summer 2024 collection, the London-born designer presented within the ballroom at the Shangri-La hotel. Campbell stunned in an elegant all-black look featuring an open button down, a blazer over with inverted shoulder pads, and well-fitting trousers.
Models were seen in countless breathtaking pieces. A gray deconstructed blazer with cutouts that show layers of fabric stacked beautifully was seen with a matching skirt over a pair of black flowing black pants. Vogue global contributing editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson was the brains behind the smart styling which assisted with provided a defining moment for Dumi.
The collection was filled with classic pieces being reconfigured into something new—innovation at its finest—as some tops were made from suiting and multiple shirts blended into one. This is a technique Dumi learned as a student at Central Saint Martins where she got her master’s degree (the designer is also a graduate of the London College of Fashion with a focus on menswear). She also pulls from her Nigerian-Brazilian roots. The pieces that have recurring wrapping are her version of Nigerian lappa with a British twist. Her Catholic upbringing gave her a fascination with the priest’s act of getting dressed in his vestments.
Dumi is living in her own world and this collection reflects that with blazer halter tops, pleated skirts, and intricate ruching. The dark aesthetic came alive through the storytelling of her culture and desires. While she was the only Black woman to debut for PFW, it created a moment that will last longer than 15 minutes. The designer was full of intent with this collection, her refreshing introduction keeps us optimistic about her future in fashion.
